Flying with Faber: Queenstown, New Zealand
One of the Most Beautiful Places in the World
By Stuart J. FaberPart One
For the past 40-plus years, my life as a travel and culinary journalist has taken me to more than 100 countries and every state in the Union. One might assume that I have grown weary and jaded with travel – quite the contrary. Each time I board a plane, be it my own or one operated by a commercial carrier, a wave of excitement overcomes me. As I step off the plane for the first touch of the foreign soil, the excitement intensifies – just as if it were my first time away from home.It has been more than 30 years since my last visit to New Zealand. Although I have a love affair with many foreign and domestic destinations, I have always cradled a special yearning to return to these South Pacific islands. As soon as I stepped on the tarmac of Queenstown (the airport has no jet ways), I knew why. It seemed as if nothing had changed.Queenstown Airport (NZQN) was first opened in 1951. Primarily, it was a strip for DC-3s flying in from Auckland. At an altitude of 1,171 feet above sea level, the main strip, which today accommodates Airbus 320s, is only 5,800-feet long. Approaching aircraft must wait in line while the landed plane completes its back-taxi to the gate – there is no taxiway. Travel was so simple back then. Queenstown has retained some of that simplicity.A Brief History and Geography LessonNew Zealand, similar in size to Great Britain or Japan, is populated by 4 million of the most friendly and contented folks I’ve ever encountered. Two main landmasses, the North Island and the South Island, are situated between the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Tasman Sea to the west. The North and South Islands are separated by the Cook Straits, a body of water, which, at its narrowest point, is about 15-feet wide. Approximately 900 miles to the west is Australia. Fiji is about 600 miles to the north. There are a number of small islands scattered about – approximately five are inhabited. The country, about 990 miles long from north to south, rests between the 29th and 53rd latitudes.Queenstown virtually intersects the 45th parallel – it’s about the same distance from the South Pole as Portland, Ore. is from the North Pole. Since the country is south of the Equator, the seasons, of course, are reversed. During my visit this past June, Queenstown on the South Island was experiencing the dawning of winter. The temperature hovered around 30 degrees F.The South Island is divided lengthwise by the Southern Alps. Glacial movements and volcanic activity have deftly sculpted this topographical masterpiece. The highest peak is just less than 10,000 feet. Queenstown resides in one of the most picturesque valleys I have ever seen. A pair of mountain ranges embrace Lake Wakatipu and descend to its shores. Cuddling the waterfront is the charming city of Queenstown.Historians tell us that New Zealand was first settled in the 13th century by Polynesians. A group of Maoris followed. The celestial navigational skills of these two groups was uncanny. Their boats were built in sections. As the boat progressed, each section coincided with a constellation of stars. They appeared to navigate to this tiny spot in the ocean as simply as we employ a GPS. Around 1642, the Dutch, led by explorer Abel Tasman arrived. Of course, they warred with the locals, named a sea after Mr. Tasman, and then departed for a time. It was not until 100 years later that British explorer James Cook mapped most of the coastline. Cook opened the door to an armada of numerous European and North Americanwhaling, sealing and trading ships.The territory became a British colony in 1841. In 1907, at the request of the New Zealand Parliament, King Edward VII proclaimed New Zealand a dominion within the British Empire. In 1947 the country adopted the Statute of Westminster, which gave New Zealand virtual legislative autonomy. Today, the country is a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary democracy. The English Queen is the head of state and the country is governed by a Prime Minister. European descendants constitute about 70 percent of the population. About 15 percent are native Maori. The balance is composed of Asians and Pacific Islanders. The primary industry is tourism, agriculture ranks second.A Memorable Flight
Actually, my 30-year bond with this country was reawakened the moment I boarded the shiny new Air New Zealand B-777-300. I am impressed that New Zealand is such a kind nation. During this recent trip, I never encountered a mean or hostile person. I include as part of my experience, my arrival at the Air New Zealand ticket counter at LAX where I was about to embark on a journey with a group of travel journalists and other travel professionals. Unlike the grumpy, officious domestic ticket agents with whom we have all become accustomed, every member of the Air New Zealand staff, from check-in throughout the flight and at baggage retrieval, was friendly and helpful. This New Zealand temperament pervaded throughout my trip.The outbound flight was scheduled for a 9:45 departure. At the stroke of 9:45, the plane gently pushed back. The same punctuality was experienced with the return flight. In both directions, my baggage beat me to the carousel.The Premiere Business Class of this Boeing 777-300 was as luxurious as many five-star hotel rooms. The seats are configured in a herringbone design, which comfortably isolates each passenger. The only structure between seats is a cocoon-like partition. At my request, the attendant transformed my seat into a full-length bed. I slept like a baby for 10 hours on each of the12-hour nonstop trans-Pacific flights. Air New Zealand is one of the best airlines I have ever flown. Queenstown-A Mecca of Outdoor Adventure
Nestled at the foot of the Remarkables Mountain Range on the shores of the magnificent Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is a bustling Alpine village with a confluence of a laid-back ambiance and an energetic cadence. Everyone seems to be heading somewhere for a good time. Originally a 1860s gold mining camp, Queenstown today is the jumping-off point for world-class skiing, helicopter flights, boating, mountain biking, hiking and a host of other outdoor adventurous activities. A city of four seasons, climates range from hot, dry summers (December to February) to magical snow-covered winters (June to August).After a brief stopover in Auckland, we changed planes. An hour after takeoff, we commenced a descent. The pilot threaded the aircraft through the valley below the tops of the parallel snow-capped mountain ranges and over the deep blue lake for a spectacular visual approach to the airport. Passengers tugged at their seatbelts for a glimpse of this scenic overture to this gorgeous region. One had to look above the plane to see the mountaintops.
SWe retrieved our luggage and hit the ground running. Actually, we didn’t spend much time on the ground. After checking in to the classy Sofitel Hotel, we boarded a Skyline Gondola for a graceful ascension up the mountainside. At the peak, we assembled for a late lunch at the Skyline Restaurant while we took in the views of the 220-degree panorama of the city, Coronet Peak, The Remarkables Mountains, the city and Lake Wakatipu.The balance of the afternoon was devoted to recovering from the trans-Pacific flight, roaming around town, shopping in Queenstown’s cosmopolitan shops and preparing for a sumptuous dinner. The family-owned shops feature local products ranging from high fashion garments to a variety of sporting gear. You can purchase anything from a pair of clunky hiking boots to fine jewelry. I preferred to ramble along the streets, gaze at the harbor, people-watch and accustom myself to looking in the proper direction for vehicles driving on what Americans consider the “wrong side of the street.”Located in the Sofitel Hotel, Jervois Steak House, (queenstown.jervoissteakhouse.co.nz) was the launching pad for what was to be a series of some of the best cuisine I have ever experienced! Chef Simon Gault traveled the United States to learn the art of steak preparation. Obviously, he was an A-plus student. New Zealand is a leader in lamb and beef production, and Simon combed the country for the best. His signature prime rib is remarkable. The grain-fed Black Angus rib steak has been dry aged, then patiently roasted and seared. The result: a luscious, tender steak with unparalleled flavor. Sides included mac and cheese and what our group voted as the world’s best mashed potatoes. Our reluctance to share the spuds almost erupted in a food fight with missiles of potatoes – spud missiles.
Plans had been arranged for our small group to explore the region with the use of several types of conveyances. The next morning, we launched on a 30-minute van ride through some of the most spectacular countryside I’ve ever seen. We drove past mountain vistas along the deep blue waters of Lake Wakatipu to the tiny village of Glenorchy. We paused for a few moments to take pictures of a church, which was about half the size of a one-room schoolhouse. We proceeded to the headquarters of the Dart River Jet Boat operation where we were outfitted with rain jackets and locally made wool hats and gloves.We hopped on the jet boats and proceeded up the Dart River rapids where it seemed no boat could travel. But our jet boat, which could execute 360-degree turns over two inches of water, was undaunted. We enjoyed breathtaking scenery as the boat accelerated through braided, glacier-fed rivers. Highly informative guides talked about the area’s history and Maori legends. We walked amongst ancient beech forests unchanged for 80 million years and viewed the scenic backgrounds for many Hobbit and Lord of the Rings movie scenes. Visit www.dartriver.co.nz/wilderness-jet for more information
At the end of the ride, I encountered one of the most memorable people I’ve ever met. Moments after the jet boat pulled to shore, we discerned the sound of two helicopters. We looked up and observed two Eurocopter EC 130B4s overhead. After an impeccable landing on the beachfront, out of one of the ships stepped Louisa Patterson – a vibrant, charismatic woman who I was soon to learn could fly just about anything. (She later told me that she was about to head to England to fly a WWII Spitfire). Appropriately, everyone calls her “Choppy.” Our group was divided between the two choppers. Moments later, we were flying over this magnificent country – this time, almost scraping the mountain slopes.We headed back toward Queenstown. Suddenly, Choppy hovered over a mountaintop, which, from the air, appeared bereft of any reasonable landing pad. Choppy, as relaxed as if she were reclining on a sofa, seamlessly, almost imperceptibly, positioned the bird on the sloping mountaintop. We hopped out and walked a few yards to a bright green putting range. The golf enthusiasts knocked around a few balls while the rest of us hiked and marveled at the scenery below. We were actually looking down about 2,000 feet along the flight path that our A320 had flown below the peaks the day before. Choppy’s helicopter service is called “Over the Top” and can be reached at www.flynz.co.nz.Reluctantly, we left the mountaintop. But we were about to experience another unique interlude. Choppy headed down the canyon toward Walter Peak High Country Farm – a compound consisting of a sheep ranch, meeting spaces, team building and a dining venue that serves farm-fresh cuisine. We sauntered toward a buffet, which featured tempting selections of fresh fish, chicken, beef and lamb. We feasted on vegetarian dishes, grilled fish, juicy steaks, lamb chops, pork ribs and chicken legs. After lunch we observed a lamb being sheared of his winter coat. Then, we gleefully watched sheep dogs rounding up a herd. We explored the farmyard and frolicked with llamas, Scottish bulls and deer. Visit www.realjourneys.co.nz.
For a change of scenery, we transferred from a city dwelling to a country estate. Set on 500 acres, just a few miles from Queenstown, Millbrook Resort (www.millbrook.co.nz) is a gentrified five-star gem. Artfully scattered throughout the acreage are 175 luxurious guestrooms, a 27-hole championship golf course, a day spa, health and fitness center and conference facilities for groups of almost any size. The spacious, tastefully appointed rooms were illuminated by the morning sunrise through large windows that opened to balconies where I could gaze at the stunning views that surrounded the resort. I felt as if I were a guest at the home of a gentleman farmer. The environs presented just the right blend of being sophisticated and archaic.I have barely scratched the surface of all of the events in which I participated during my visit to this paradise. In a Part Two of my Queenstown adventure, I will chronicle my adventures of bungee jumping, visits to wineries, back country jeep safaris, gold mining and cuisine the likes I have rarely experienced.
