Flying With Faber - October 2012
Oceanside, California – A Hidden Seashore Treasure
By Stuart J. Faber“I was born here-grew up a few blocks down the street. Back in the 60s when I was no more than six years old, my friends and I would walk to the beach. In those days, parents turned their kids loose and never doubted that they would show up at suppertime. We often cut through the parking lot of this very diner.”“I remember one day, I had a quarter in my pocket. I stopped in for a milkshake. The cost was 30 cents, so I was out of luck. Today, I own the joint, so I can have as many milkshakes as I want.”John Daley, owner of the 101 Café on Oceanside’s Coast Highway and storyteller extraordinaire, is also the town’s self-appointed and official historian. We sat together in a booth as he recounted his stories. I ordered a milkshake. The cost, about three bucks – ten times the cost when John was a kid.John opened a wrinkled manila folder and presented me with a group of equally wrinkled photos.“See this house – a classic Victorian bungalow built at the turn of the last century. The dilapidated skeleton of this great house is barely standing on the street along the waterfront. Soon it will be demolished and replaced by a spiffy hotel. If you want to see it, better hurry. Sometimes progress is sad.”I couldn’t count the number of times I’ve either flown over Oceanside or whizzed by on Interstate 5 (I-5). The Oceanside VOR poses majestically between the highway and the seashore. I always enjoy seeing a VOR up close. Generally, we view them from the air. During cloudy days, we still know where they are. Oceanside is one of the initial fixes on the IFR approach to San Diego. I have not checked lately, but the VOR at one time had voice capabilities. “Oceanside VOR-Oceanside VOR.” That’s how we used to verify that the coffee grinder Narco radio was tuned to the correct frequency. Was it a recording or some civil servant repeating “Oceanside VOR” for eight hours a day?The AirportOceanside Municipal Airport (KOKB) is one of the few southern California airports that still retains a level of historic allurement . Spread over 43 acres just a few minutes from I-5, the city-owned field and its active pilots association has resisted attempts to convert this important icon into a cluster of shopping centers. Just four miles from the Oceanside VORTAC (OCN) the field serves as an important component of Oceanside’s economic, social and tourist development.At an elevation of 24 feet above sea level, the field has one runway (R 6-24), with a length of 2,712 feet. Once on the ground, you can taxi up to Airport Property Ventures (760/901-4260) and tie down for five bucks a night.On IFR days, your choice is a VOR-A or GPS approach. The VOR circle-to-land approach takes you down to about 1,200 feet, or about 1,170 feet above the field, so on low-ceiling days, you may want to select an alternate such as Mc Clellan-Palomar (KCRQ) which has a longer runway and an ILS approach.An Old-Fashioned Beach TownA few months ago, and after a short interlude at Oceanside Airport, I decided to pay a visit to Oceanside, the city. I hopped in a car, drove a short distance to the I-5 and turned off on Mission Boulevard. Immediately, the ambiance was transformed from the din of the frenzied highway to a tranquil journey back in time. Look what I had missed on all of those occasions when I whizzed right by.Within moments, I was in the midst of a checkerboard of delightful village streets lined with local mom-and-pop shops and restaurants – a bakery with freshly baked sweets, a surf shop, local pubs and cantinas and historic Victorian bungalows – a real downtown with distinct borders. I fell in step with the slower cadence and manageable traffic. We parked the car, changed our status to that of pedestrian, and rarely saw the vehicle until our departure.One of the focal points in Oceanside is the majestic wooden Oceanside Pier. First built in 1888, it survives today as the longest wooden pier in California. It defines Oceanside almost as its Golden Gate Bridge. At 1,942 feet, one could probably land an airplane on it. We selected the wiser option for its use and took a late-night stroll. Around midnight, the pier was still bustling with families, fishermen, late-night picnic gatherings and folks just enjoying the sound of the breaking waves and the glitter of the stars.More than three miles of beaches define Oceanside’s western border. Whichever you choose, Harbor Beach, Breakwater Way, Pier View or Tyson Street, you won’t be overrun by hoards of people. Oceanside is also famous for world-class surf conditions. The city has hosted several major surfing events including the US Pro Longboard Championships.HotelsThe Wyndham Oceanside Pier Resort, 333 N. Myers Street, 866/764-2281, just steps from the beach and the Oceanside Pier, houses a number of timeshare units which, when not occupied by the owners, are rented out as hotel suites. Bring your entire family and rent an expansive two-bedroom suite with a complete kitchen for a reasonable rate. Or, you can select from the more traditional hotels throughout the city, such as the Holiday Inn, Best Western and the Days Inn.Dining
Pacific 333 presents an ideal blend of a stunning interior with a modern culinary concept. The lights are soft and dramatic. Both the crowd and the staff are friendly and energetic. The room buzzes with lively conversation and pleasantries. The bar is populated with folks enjoying exotic drinks. At the other end of the bar, diners are digging into snacks of fresh seafood. Step into the dining room and you will be greeted by a competent and genuinely hospitable staff. Their knowledge of each menu item is impressive. Start out with a dozen fresh Pacific oysters or a seafood tower of oysters, ceviche, king crab legs, shrimp, steamed clams and mussels. A lobster roll of tempura lobster, crab salad, avocado and eel sauce is sensational. I love beets and my infatuation intensified when I sampled the fresh beet salad with arugula, truffle oil, goat cheese and a sprinkling of capers.
Specialty entrees range from fresh seafood to steakhouse quality steaks. If you can’t make up your mind, I recommend the best of both worlds: twin lobster tails served alongside a juicy USDA choice 25-ounce bone-in rib eye. This entrée is designed to be shared and whenever I share, I select a partner with a small appetite. If you have not filled up on the rib eye, order another one. The cowboy version is twice the size.
Hangar steak had become quite popular and for a good reason. The version at Pacific 333 is charred perfectly on the outside and tender within. I also recommend the cioppino, the foundation of which is a hearty tomato sauce. The bowl is overflowing with shrimp, jumbo lump crab, lobster, clams and mussels. A shrimp fettuccini is served with asparagus, roasted bell pepper and tapenade – a terrific combination. Finally, try the Australian Kobe beef meatloaf. Two fabulous side dishes are the sautéed mushrooms or the creamed spinach. The restaurant is at 333 N. Pacific Street, 760/433-3333.
Each time, I took a stroll across the pier, I was intrigued as I walked past the Tin Fish. What drew my attention was the architecture and color of this quirky fish shack. This beautiful old building, once a tin shop, now painted a shiny royal blue and white, is home to some of the best fresh fish along the coast. Fried cod tacos, fish and chips, plates of grilled salmon, mahi mahi or shrimp, the selections are robust, flavorful and reasonably priced. Plus, you can get a sandwich of fried oysters, chicken tenders or even a bacon burger. The location is 302 The Strand, 760/966-0007.
The 101 Café, 631 Coast Highway, 760/722-5220, opened in 1928 when U.S. 101 was the only road from Los Angeles to San Diego. At one time, it served as the Greyhound bus stop. The café flourished during WWII and during the heyday of the 50s drive-in craze. A series of name changes occurred until John Daley purchased it and restored the original name. The café serves the best breakfast in town. Take your pick from a variety of omelets to steak and eggs, classic French toast or homemade buttermilk pancakes. The biscuits and homemade gravy are as good as I’ve had in the south. Lunch items range from super hamburgers and chicken burgers to fabulous hot meat loaf sandwiches. If you are lucky, you might get a chance to speak with John who never hesitates to recount tales of old Oceanside. You can visit on www.101cafe.net.
Lotsa Stuff to DoOne of Oceanside’s great natural resources is the weather. Just about all year around, the climate is sunny, mild and outdoor activity-friendly. Five golf courses are open to visitors. They include Arrowood, El Camino, Center City, Marine Memorial and Emerald Isle. A paved bike trail with more than nine miles of unfolding scenery, plus trails for mountain bikes, racing bikes and beach cruisers await the enthusiast. The Coastal Rail Trail is a 44-mile path that runs from Oceanside to San Diego.If you harbor a yearning for coastal skydiving, you have come to the right place. Tsunami Skydivers operates out of the Oceanside Airport and caters both to first-time and experienced divers. They provide jumps from 13,000 feet out of the fast climbing PAC 750XL jump plane that was designed for skydiving. Call 760/390-5867 or visit tsunamiskydivers.com.At the Guajome Regional Park, you can hike or ride a horse on a trail beside a spring fed lake. It is also the center of some of California’s best bird watching. Or, if you are skydiving, I understand that the birds enjoy watching you.Oceanside Harbor, the largest in the region, consists of 100 acres which includes 75 acres of water and 25 acres of land where you can select from jet skiing, boating, sailing, kayaking, sport fishing or whale watching. Several attractive shops and restaurants dot the shore of the harbor.Rent a boat, cruise through the harbor and dock at one of the many village restaurants where you can dine inside or purchase refreshments and take them on board for a nautical picnic. Then, head out to sea to view one of California’s most spectacular coastlines. Warm waters make for great wave runner riding and exhilarating on-the-water fun, either in the lagoon or out in the Pacific.At Oceanside Boat Rentals, 256 Harbor Drive South, 760/722-0028, you can rent just about anything that floats. All of the equipment is immaculate and in top-notch shape. Choices include kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, pedal boats, electric or powerboats, sailboats or SeaDoos. For more information, visit oceanside@boats4rent.com.There are plenty of indoor activities as well. The Oceanside Old Mission San Luis Rey is a classic example of Spanish Colonial Architecture with Moorish influences. Self-guided tours, educational lectures and retreat stays are part of the Mission’s offerings.Surf enthusiasts love the California Surf Museum where the history of surfing is displayed. The museum also has displays of rotating exhibits on everything from skateboarding to underwater photography.The Oceanside Museum of Art exhibits rendering from landscape painting to photography. The downtown-walking district includes five theaters, three of which are historic. Productions include music concerts and film festivals.The Visit Oceanside Visitors Bureau is very helpful with maps, discount tickets, hotel reservations and general information. Visit them at www.visitoceanside.org.From now on, every time I head down to San Diego, I am going to make a stop in Oceanside. For years, I missed this treasure by the sea. I have a lot to make up. And John Daley has many more Oceanside stories to recount.
